Editor's note: The Inspired Stays series highlights hotels we love around Italy. Each property is independently reviewed by an Italy Magazine writer, who is generally hosted on a complimentary basis. Our contributors do not accept compensation or gifts in exchange for specific types of coverage. We only showcase properties we would genuinely recommend overall.
While this hotel is now closed for the season, it's never too early to begin planning travel for next year and beyond.
Why we love it
Perched on a hill overlooking Portofino, this legendary hotel has hosted VIPs and celebrities for more than a century. Now run by Belmond, it’s been refreshed by lauded designer Martin Brudnizki, who upped the glam factor while preserving the hotel’s historic character.
What to expect
The Splendido is one of Italy’s finest luxury hotels, with a fascinating history, romantic ambiance, excellent cuisine, superlative service and a correspondingly high price tag. It has a prestigious location overlooking Portofino, two restaurants, a chic new bar, an infinity pool with jaunty umbrellas, tennis courts, a brand new spa by Dior and a boutique with a curated selection of high-end clothes and accessories. In addition to 52 rooms and suites in the main building, the property has just added Villa Beatrice — a standalone five-bedroom villa just down the hill — to its inventory.
Background
The Splendido opened as a hotel in 1901 in a 16th-century Benedictine monastery converted into a private home by Baron Baratta in the 1800s. During its Dolce Vita-era heyday in the 1950s and ‘60s, it famously hosted movie stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall. A renovation begun in 2023 was nearly complete when I stayed in August. Though an update to the main restaurant and a renovation of a few rooms were both still pending when I stayed, it already felt cohesive, and in October, it was ranked 83rd in the inaugural “51-100” list put out by The World‘s 50 Best Hotels.
Location, location, location
The Splendido lords over Portofino — the legendary Ligurian fishing village where VIPs love to vacation — from its perch in the hills. The restaurants, pool, gardens and most of the rooms boast views of the sea and Castello Brown. A complimentary shuttle is available to take guests down the hill to the center of Portofino or to Bagni Fiore in Paraggi, a beach club run by Dior and Langosteria that partners with the hotel.
Where you’ll sleep
All but six of the rooms and suites were renovated when I stayed, and the finished ones had maintained a romantic Old World style, with antiques and fine textiles. My junior suite had a separate living room with a big, cushy sofa, a small balcony overlooking the sea, a walk-in closet, bedroom with a comfy bed and dressing table, and a bathroom featuring mosaic tiles inspired by Genoese palaces. I appreciated luxe touches, like a Nespresso machine in a bespoke bar cabinet, complimentary soft drinks in the minibar, a Dyson hairdryer and orange-scented bath products by Acqua di Parma created exclusively for the hotel.
Dining & drinks
The main restaurant, La Terrazza, offers a sweet start to the day, with a buffet of homemade pastries, cheeses and fruit, plus eggs a la carte. In the evenings, it transforms into an elegant candlelit setting for refined classics like trofie with pesto made with DOP basil from Pra’, plus a whole dessert room. At the casual Splendido Grill, choose from the catch of the day or specialties like chargrilled octopus with silky red peppers. The new bar, Baratta Sedici, has tables on the terrace and a cozy indoor area with an illuminated onyx bar where bartenders shake up creative concoctions.
Service notes
When it comes to service, Belmond has some of the highest standards in the business. They go out of their way to make guests feel coddled with special touches like a welcome amenity upon check-in and newspapers and sunscreen by the pool. At breakfast, when bees were bothering guests on the terrace, the waiters brought smoking coffee grounds to the tables as a natural remedy to ward off the pesky insects. No request is too big or too small here — ask and you shall receive.
Spa time
As part of the renovation, the hotel has added Italy’s first permanent Dior Spa, which offers massages and targeted beauty treatments. I loved the signature Splendidior treatment, which includes a gem-guided massage with semi-precious stones and a facial. In addition to indoor treatment rooms, the spa has outdoor cabanas immersed in the garden for al fresco treatments.
Family perks
Little guests are pampered with kid-sized bathrobes, towels, slippers and bottle warmers. Extra beds and cribs are available in junior suites and suites. The Kids Club is open everyday from 10am to 6pm and babysitting services are available. The hotel also welcomes small dogs with dog bowls and offers beds, grooming services, dog sitters and even dog massages.
You should know...
The concierge can organize a range of activities, from tennis lessons on the tennis court to boat rides along the coast to San Fruttuoso Abbey or Santa Margherita Ligure aboard a traditional gozzo. Butler service is included for guests staying at Villa Beatrice.
Accessibility
- ADA friendly rooms and bathrooms are available.
- The hotel has an elevator.
- Guests with restricted mobility may be unable to access some of the outdoor areas due to the historic nature of the property.
Features & amenities
- Seaside
- Restaurant
- Bar
- Free WiFi
- Spa
- Pool
- Free parking
- Garden
- Fitness room
- Family friendly
- Pets welcome
Contacts
Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino
Salita Baratta 16, Portofino
Tel. +39 0185267801
Website
